Still though, having seen the above photo, I can see why it’s so easy for them to situate the artificial wall there. Perfect sheer walls into an old quarry lake.

Can anyone think of a location in Ireland that might suit this sort of situation? Any of the scuba divers out there know of one? I’ve an old memory myself of diving in an abandoned quarry somewhere in the midlands but I was only a youngster back then so the name escapes me. Throw it in the comments if so!

Flintshire, North Wales (Team Geared Up) - I read this morning on 8a.nu (one of my favourite sites) that Adam Ondra, pictured above, has just made short work of La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana in Northern Spain… and he’s still only 15!

“On his second day and fifth try Adam Ondra walked up La Rambla, 9a(+). Dani Andrada and Edu Marin could only watch in amazement.” (http://www.8a.nu/)

For those who are not familiar with the route it was a long, long term project for years with an accepted lower off in place 2 thirds up the route resulting in an 8c+. The complete line was eventually lead by Ramón Julian Puigblanque and since has had ascents from Dani Andrada, Chris Sharma, Edu Marin, Patxi Usobiaga and Andreas Bindhammer - all top class climbers.

Also of note on 8a.nu is the mention of Dani Andrada’s constant string of new routes - just yesterday establishing a new 8c+ and today extending it to result in another 9a route! The site is really at the forefront of the cutting edge sport climbing scene and has even began to reward the top climbers like Andrada and Ondra with shares in the website itself! Plus with the increasing use of phone blogging - you are literally reading about and looking at pictures of hard first ascents 15mins after they’ve been fired!

-Dave-

KILDARE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Found this through B3Bouldering this morning in my feed. It’s a an interesting way of solo-ing routes.
I won’t give away the main surprise of the footage, but it definitely gave me a surprise(!) when the guy decided to do what you can see in the snapshot from the movie above. No ropes involved……

Check out the full video here

- Neal :) -

SINGAPORE (Team Geared Up) - Neal McQuaid (TGU Blogger) has started a new climbing coaching company IrishClimbingCoching.ie with Nigel Callender.

We are Irelands first and only dedicated Climbing Coaching provider, combining our own experience of top-level climbing with the science of performance and training.

They have a website in the form of a blog and Nige has done a fantastic piece of writing about the delicate balance of motivation. Worth the read to see what a few misplaced words can do…

What is motivation?

Motivation is something very personal and may not always make much sense to anyone other than the individual concerned. In a global sense it’s something that stirs the soul and sends excited shivers through your body, sometimes it’s so powerful that it consumes you - every unoccupied moment is spent dreaming.

At a climbing comp as Junior, Nige “foolishly” revealed a major personal climbing dream route to a well known and respected older climber…

I was told I was being unrealistic and the word ‘never’ was actually used, but I didn’t have the confidence to tell them exactly where to go and so shrugged it off. This one, small and careless comment had other plans however. It stuck fast in my mind and soon - I was consumed, it burned like a fire inside of me.

Nige’s efforts focused on this mere 6 move bouldering problem.

3 moves in I met what was to become my Nemesis… I fell from that move somewhere in the region of 400-500 times.

7 years later and Nige was “locked into” into his long-term project. Success was not far away.

I gave everything to holding the swing, reaching the heelhook and sketching my way to the top of my own Nemesis. The pressure instantly lifted, but this felt different, there were the usual shouts of success etc. but something was missing. Unfortunately motivation is a hugely complex beast. There was no lasting elation, only a feeling of relief.

Video of Nige on Decoy Ploy V9/10 (first ascent) in the Ogwen Valley, North Wales.

Best of luck to both of you, I look forward to hearing the first stories come through.

-Robin-

DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Here’s a brief update on the last trip to Siurana in Spain with Rob. Firstly, who’d have thought we’d spend the whole trip looking for the SUN while there?! Usually it’s the complete opposite with an almost allergic reaction to sun in Siurana due to it being way too warm. I should have known it’d be different when I arrived at the crag wearing a t-shirt, two thermals, a hoodie, scarf, hat and a down jacket? :) Still though, once you’d gotten through the first few minutes of coldness (on every route you started), it was brilliant. Amazing actually!
I was only getting over an injury, and suffering seriously from a whopping cold/flu before I left so wasn’t expecting much. My only aim was to avoid Anabolica, the previous 8a which would affect the injury again, but try another one and try another harder route I’d been on only briefly previously. As for Rob, well it looked like he was game for anything which was always fun :)
Siurana was sooo quiet in comparison to last time, but we were lucky enough to bump into a small crew of Brits (Hi Dan, Tony, Sophie!) who were keen also in the cold weather to get out on rock. Due to the conditions, anyone who was motivated helped.

Dan on a 7b+, Monstant, Spain

The general routine? up for 8:30ish, climbing by 9:30ish/10 until dark (5:30), and then recover for the evening. Over the week Rob successfully ticked Bistec de Bicep, the classic, short and burly 7b+, and numerous other grade 7’s. A great week considering the conditions, and the general sluggishness that came with climbing in freezing temperatures!

Rob warming up (note the gloves) for Bistec de Biceps, Sector L’Olla, Siurana, Spain

I got to follow my aim, trying a new route on the big wall in Siurana. Crimpy and technical with a disappointing drilled mono pocket to overcome a blank section of wall. The problem? I can’t reach the mono either (Who measured it?!?!) so have to do some emmmm, entertaining maneuvers to get to it :)
I also got to try my other out-there hard route in Monstant. I’m in awe, slightly humbled due to it’s difficulty, and more inspired due to the fact that I could deal with it’s difficulty. It’s the 8b+/5.14a that can be seen in the Extras of that DVD ‘E11′. I wasn’t sure I was ready to publicly mention it here as it’s pretty out there in grades (for me at least), but what the hell, it’s on the wish list for a trip next year. Lots of work required to get myself to standard though, but if I needed an incentive to continue my training, this is it! Speaking of which, if anyone wants to do some virtual training by sharing knowledge and benchmarks, do let me know……

As it happened, it was wild weather the day we landed (the worst landing I’ve ever had), and on the final day it started snowing! Talk about a perfect week. I got word that no one could climb for the next week as there was no sunshine for heat. Talk about a fluke week for us.

Since then, well it’s been back to the drawing board, sorry fingerboard ;), and a lot more running! The more I talk to Dave and some of the other runners I’ve gotten to know through TGU, I’m starting to get into the running scene. Oh oh……

By the way, Happy New Year to all!

LONDON, UK (Team Geared Up) - As I posted on TGU in 2005, after hearing Simon Anthamatten speak at the Kandersteg Ice Climbing Festival about his 7 new lines on the Eiger North-face in one summer and seeing him climbing I was truly taken by him. Amazing character, although it helps if your ‘da is a Bergfuhrer!

Bren (mountaintraining.ie) has just reported that Simon and Michael Lerjen have just set a new record on the Matterhorn climbing from the Hornli Hut to summit in 1hr 40mins and returning in 53mins giving a total round trip on the Hornli ridge of 2hrs 33mins. Normally this route takes 7-9hrs for a fit experienced climber. This is sensational.

-Robin-

(Image Credit: Matterhorn Hornli Ridge from Zermatt, by Robin Blandford)