NEWBRIDGE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Dal Riada climbing club, the group that most Irish climbers join after finishing their apprenticeship in university, had it’s annual gathering last weekend in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim.
Following on from previous years, it was basically an excuse to go climbing in mid October on the fantastic cliffs of Fair Head. Picture a crag, ranging in height from 30 to 100+ metres high, lots of cracks, north facing, almost straight out of the water, and you’re beginning to get the picture. As Fairheadclimbers describes it: “On first acquaintance, the grades may seem harsh. The climbing at Fair Head is very physical and can be quite tiring for the uninitiated. Once you get used to the style of climbing, the grades seem just about spot on. Learn how to jam though!”
If any of the foreign readers are keen to try climbing Ireland, make sure you don’t miss this!

As it happened about 25-ish climbers turned up for the climbing on the Saturday. As it happened, there was additional benefit as one of the local farmers has built a fantastic new car park making access problems almost a thing of the past. As ever, it seems people had a good day, what with our ‘Indian Summer’ continuing into late October :)

The primary part of the weekend however, centers around the evening activities of Saturday. Following tradition, it’s a night of pints and a slideshow (depending on your attitude decided that order!). As a fine compliment (and possibly a damning of Irish weather this year….), we were treated to slideshows covering, USA, France, Africa (Hot Rock challenge), Asia and Australia. Luckily enough, Kev Power was on hand to show some photos of Ireland and in doing so prove that not only was there climbing to be done, but lots of new climbing on the amazing Aran Islands on the west coast. Cheers to Calvin, Jane, Damien and Kev for all the amazing photos, I know I’ve a few ideas for destinations and trips in the future.

As it happens, access issues are now sorted but the climbers have no where to stay for the forthcoming future after the climbing hut was closed and the local hostel was on it’s final evening of trading. Sleeping in a tent isn’t really an option at the top end of Ireland in winter :) Still though, we were royally treated to a comfortable evening in the hostel, only scuppered by some French tourists (not part of our group!) thinking it would be funny during the night to use up all the fire extinguishers in one of the kitchens….it was funny the next day though as they attempted to clean up…..
Still though, Sunday dawned overcast but with minimal signs of rain. As ever, the gang were back on the crag, and several routes saw ascents. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a climbing partner, but fortunately for you it did mean that I got some great photos. Photos are of Mick on ‘Track of the Cat’ (E4 6a - about mid 5.11) - 50+ metres of pristine climbing on great rock. The lowest photo is of an unknown climber and just gives a good idea of scale.

Still though, all in all a great weekend. After feeling the winter chill slowly cut into me over the Sunday, it seems winter might be finally thinking about arriving. Great way to end October if you ask me…..

Mick on ‘Track of the Cat’ (E4 6a).

I can’t even fit the full height of the crag in the photo…..

- Neal :) -

CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND (Team Geared Up) - After what has been largely a disastrous summer for Irish climbing with a lot of rain, rain and more rain (as one friend put it with that amusing Irish curse, “the weather’s been sh&*e”), I thought I’d drag together whatever snippets I could accumulate from the climbing scene.

It seems everywhere bar the Burren has been frequented between rain showers this year. The Aran Islands finally seems to be getting some of the attention it deserves and Grainné O’Brien’s collection on Flickr shows some of the wilder routes that are possible there (photo above of Rob Whelan on The Roof (E4/5.12a), a roof climb on pre-placed protection through a crack in the roof). There have been a few more climbers out here however, and hopefully there might be some good news from the previous weekend of some new ascents so stay tuned on that.
Fair Head in Northern Ireland has also had some regular visits although it sounds like the weather has had a toll also. It seems most of the groups from Dublin have been limited in their success. Still though, as Niamh Burke’s photos on Picassa show, the weather was obviously glorious for a few days (see photo below also)! FairHeadclimber is reporting some ascents during July so it seems the Northern group have been lucky with some good days also. Ricky Bell, ever reliable for new routes, has climbed two new E7’s for example (see top of page for report)

in between all this, Ailladie.com, one of the reliable sites for news on the Burren’s climbing scene died a death a few weeks ago and will be missed. It looks like I’ve one less place to look for news and photos now. As for the sports climbing scene, it seems that most of the active climbers have been making the most of the European sports climbing with a few trips to Gorge du Tarn, Ceuse, Switzerland, Italy, etc. - pity there’s not enough bolts in Ireland to save the flight. [that's the sort of comment to stir up a hornet's nest in Ireland :)]. We’ve already posted on TGU about news of irish climbers abroad here, here and here.

As always, if there’s any news, make sure to contact me [ntesting @ gmail.com] with the info and I’ll do my best to post it!

- Neal :) -

(Image Credits: (top) Rob Whelan on The Roof, Aran Islands, Ireland. Photo by Grainné O’Brien
(bottom) Claire Comiskey on unknown route, Fair Head, Antrim, Ireland. Photo by Niamh Burke.)