DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - I had the fortune to attend a Sea Survival training course in the amazing NMCI at the Irish Naval Base in Cork last weekend. The pool has simulated environmental effects including cold water, darkness, rain, wind, waves, lightning - great storm conditions.

They threw us in full clothes and with 2 pairs of overalls on-top to test our life-jackets. After a day of training we moved up to our full survival kit and had a simulated boat abandonment from a rib in the dark into a liferaft.

The experience was daunting - no matter how comfortable you are with it, I really would not like to do this for real - especially with untrained passengers. I didn’t realise how out of your comfort zone you are in a liferaft when everything is cramped, stuffy, and jelly to touch. Ever felt sea-sick in a swimming pool? With this simulator it’s possible.

Here’s some video and photos from the day…

Irish Coast Guard Sea Survival Course from Robin Blandford on Vimeo.

Full set here.

-Robin.

(Image Credits: VF, Crosshaven)

LIMERICK, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Improving Your Climbing Technique (Part 1)

Lack of precision in your footwork

Ever wondered why you go through the toes of your climbing shoes after only a few months? Chances are it’s because you’re not paying enough attention to your foot placement when you climb. This can range on a continuum from missing the hold completely (often due to attempting to place the foot too quickly and so almost throwing it at a hold) to having to re-place the foot on a hold, as you haven’t got the correct area of the shoe to contact the foothold (often due to looking away at the last moment before your foot lands on the hold). All these small moments of inaccuracy mean that you move in a less efficient manner, speed up the wear on your climbing shoes and decrease your chances of success on a route/boulder problem.

So how do you improve these basic technical errors?

The answer is concentration and practice!! Some ‘exercises’ that will help you to improve your precision include:
1) Climbing so that there is absolutely no noise from your feet - if there are tapping noises coming from your feet every time you place them on a hold, you’re not being slow and accurate enough in your foot placement.

2) Imagining that your shoes are worth far more than you can afford or even made of glass. Every time you scuff them, or miss a hold you damage them - the only way to avoid this is to be extremely careful in your foot placement.

3) Set yourself a boulder problem in at the climbing wall. Balance coins on each of the footholds and attempt to climb the problem without knocking any of the coins. The only way to manage this will be to climb with near perfect precision and grace, any inaccurate movements will knock the coins off and send you back to the start of the problem.

The only way to improve your footwork is to constantly pay attention to it. At first, these ‘exercises’ will seem difficult and a waste of energy, but as time goes on and the motor programmes develop and refine themselves, it will become automatic and something that you barely have to think about.

Part 2 to follow soon….

-Nigel Callender-

(Image Credit: Dave Hunt Bouldering in Doolin, Photo - Nigel Callender)

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Nigel Callender has been National Bouldering Champion on numerous occasions since he started climbing 12 years ago. He works as a Climbing Instructor and has sessions to suit all levels of ability from Learn to Rock Climb days to Guided Bouldering and Adventure Race Training. See www.nigelcallender.com for more details. He also works as a performance coach with Neal McQuaid - See www.irishclimbingcoaching.ie

KERRY, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Last weekend Nathan Kingerlee ran an Adventure Racing training weekend in Killarney with his business OutdoorsIreland.com. In this 2-part TGU guest post series, Nathan covers his 8 top tips for adventure racers.

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Continued from Part I (tips 1-4).

5. Plan your transitions carefully
Time is often lost due to a lackadaisical approach to transitions. It is not difficult to ensure that what you need for the next stage is where you want it but people still seem to get it wrong. For those really competing or chasing fast times transitions can be where seconds and minutes are won and lost. A few minutes checking or preparing a boat, bike or even just a helmet in advance can save time in a race. If a backup team is preparing your transition area make sure they know what you want. Lastly, for major transitions, say boat to bike for example, practising in advance is really helpful in identifying the most efficient strategy.

6. Clothing and footwear
During the event you want to minimise the number of changes you have to make to your clothes and footwear. There is a vast array of styles and fabrics to choose from.
Look for advice from people who have more experience, and experiment as much as you can in advance of racing. The more knowledge you have of the course and terrain, the easier it will be to decide on what you need. Pay a lot of attention to your shoes and socks. One blister and your day will be hell.

7. Skills Practice
More and more adventure races are including stages requiring technical skills such as abseiling, jumaring, technical mountain biking, navigation etc. The only way to become proficient is to practice. Tuition from a qualified professional instructor is often the best approach for learning and also for advice about equipment selection etc.

8. Look after yourself
As in any sport where the body is pushed to it’s limits, the importance of looking after yourself beyond training and racing cannot be stressed too highly. Nutrition during racing and training is important but equally so is your general diet and lifestyle. Properly warming up and down, stretching etc before and after training is vital. As is eating and drinking in the hour after a race or training session. If you are training and racing hard over several months then you body will need several weeks rest at some point.

-Nathan.

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Catch tips 1 to 4 in part I yesterday (Thursday).

Learn more about these skills at Adventure Race Training with Nathan Kingerlee of Outdoors Ireland at info@outdoorsireland.com or +353 (0) 86 860 45 63.

KERRY, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Last weekend Nathan Kingerlee ran an Adventure Racing training weekend in Killarney with his business OutdoorsIreland.com. In this 2-part TGU guest post series, Nathan covers his 8 top tips for adventure racers.

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1. Lightweight Equipment
Even the shortest of adventure races will take several hours. Throughout this time any weight you can save yourself from carrying will reduce your energy expenditure, reduce stress on your joints and muscles and reduce your time on the course! All of the gear used in adventure racing , bikes, boats, helmets, harnesses etc is available in various designs and models, some light, some not so light. In general lightweight materials are more expensive and less durable but the payback comes on race day.

2. Pace yourself
You must think about the length and duration of the races you intend to take part in. The longer the race the slower you go if you want to avoid burning out half way through. Put this into practice in training also. Try to do some training over similar distances and durations to the races you plan to take part in. Running 10 miles in an hour is very different from covering 50 miles in 10 hours!

3. Nutrition
During a race you must keep energy and fluid levels in your body topped up. There are hundreds of products out there, from the humble mars bar to high tech energy gels and electrolyte drinks. We all have slightly different metabolisms and tastes. You need to find what works best for you. Experiment with different products, vary the intervals you eat and drink at during training, ask others what they use. It’s not uncommon for people to try new products/approaches on a race day only to find that their stomach can’t handle it.

4. Learn about the course
If you have done loads of hill running in the Wicklow mountains you might be surprised when you arrive in the Kerry or Connemara Hills at how different the terrain is. If you know the course, or even just the region, there is no excuse for having the wrong shoes, or tyres, or boat etc. Also you should try to do some training on terrain that is similar to race conditions just to ‘get the feel of it’.

-Nathan.

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Catch tips 5 to 8 in part II tomorrow (Friday).

Learn more about these skills at Adventure Race Training with Nathan Kingerlee of Outdoors Ireland at info@outdoorsireland.com or +353 (0) 86 860 45 63.

With three weeks to go to the Rotterdam Marathon I’ve reached the stage where I only have one more lonely, long run to do. While the training itself has been lonely (running with a heart monitor for the long runs has meant that it’s necessary to run alone) the preparation hasn’t been entirely solo. After posting about the physiological tests I had done back in February, I got a very kind offer of help from sports scientist Nige from Irish Climbing Coaching.

Nige interpreted the results and from that we tailored my training to suit the marathon I was training for. There was only a short amount of time between the tests and the marathon so I couldn’t afford to do anything crazy or drastic in case it didn’t work but so far all appears to be great!! My enthusiasm for the task meant that I overdid it a little with the gym work (and cycling and swimming!!) and showed tiny signs of overtraining, but under advisement from Nige after a couple of rest days I was right back on track.

One thing I was really chuffed about was that he encouraged me to try the long runs at a much higher heart rate than I’d ever attempted before. I’d always taken long runs really, really easy but this new regime dragged me up to a whole new level. Huge confidence boost that was, to know that I could put myself under some pressure and actually keep it going for 3 hours. Another way in which Nige helped is that I got a chance to voice how I felt about certain training sessions and wasn’t just plodding along to a training schedule regardless of how it was affecting me. Cheers Nige for listening to all that whining….. ;-)

There’s no point pretending I won’t be happy with a fast time. This isn’t a “get me round” marathon for me. I’ve jogged around too many to know that I can’t let it happen again. I’ve entered a fast, flat course so I’ll be happy with nothing less than a Personal Best!! I feel like I’ve done enough it’s just a case of how much I’m willing to suffer on the day……

If you’re doing the Wicklow Way runs, Connemara, London or Paris do let us know how you’re training went and what your hopes for a time are!

-Aisling-

Photo is from my flickr set of the Tibradden IMRA race last year.

KILDARE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) -
For all those interested in climbing, don’t forget about the upcoming seminar in Tollymore Mountain Centre!
Nigel Callender, sidekick of mine, asked me to post this as it’s an event not to be missed if you’re in any way interested in climbing, coaching and training.

“From the 28th-30th of March some of the biggest names in High performance climbing and training for climbing will be gathering in Tollymore Mountain Centre (URL www.tollymore.com) in Co. Down for the 1st Irish Performance Climbing and Coaching Seminar.

The event, supported by Outsider Magazine and Tollymore, is being organised by Nigel Callender, one halfof Irish Climbing Coaching. The weekend promises to change the face of Irish climbing forever, by raising levels of knowledge within the Irish scene on everything from nutrition to training to injuries.

Some of the presenters at the event will include Audry Morrison; a leading researcher in the field of the effects of climbing on the young body, Sean Villanueva; sports scientist + climbing coach as well as one of Belgium’s top climbers and Anne Arran; former British youth team coach and the 2nd British woman to climb F.8a. To see more on these presenters and the many others, go to the Seminar’s Blog Page (http://performanceclimbingandcoaching.blogspot.com).

The event is filling up fast, so to book your place visit the Tollymore website. The event is aimed at anyone looking to improve, but especially those involved with introducing people to the sport. The end vision is to raise the overall quality of knowledge available on the scene to the levels inherent in other nations.”

Contact details for Tollymore are:
Tollymore Mountain Centre, Bryansford, Newcastle, Co. Down, BT33 OPT, Northern Ireland
Tel: 028 4372 2158 [Note: please use 048 as prefix for calling from Republic of Ireland]
Fax: 028 4372 6155 [Note: please use 048 as prefix for calling from Republic of Ireland]
Email: info@tollymoremc.com or admin@tollymoremc.com

For anyone interested in opening their eyes to new oppurtunities in their climbing potential, get yourselves along to this event. Seriously, this is exciting news for any climbers in the country. If you’re keen to improve your ability, this is worth considering for advice from some seriously good climbers and doctors!

- Neal :) -

KILDARE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - For those looking for good articles on training advice, don’t forget to check out Irishclimbingcoaching’s site (which will be going through a re-design soon!). There’s some useful advice, especially in relation to setting your goals and focusing your training so it actually pays off when you get on rock!

For those starting to think about the upcoming summer season and it’s glorious weather, start focusing those thoughts with some good ideas:

1. Have some goals (makes it much easier to justify putting yourself through hardship at the wall)
2. focus your training on the type of climbing you’ll be doing
3. Positive thoughts!!!! (look at my optimism for the summer! also helps when it comes to training)

For anyone interested, there’s a bouldering masterclass being run at DCU’s wall this Sunday (9th March 2008). There’s still a few places left so if you’re interested, email irishclimbingcoaching@gmail.com

disclaimer: I am involved in IrishClimbingCoaching and it’s coaching courses. Please let me know whether you’d like some posts (or even guest posts) in relation to training up here on TGU!!!!!

Image Credit: Some of the members of the new climbing wall in Dublin getting a little excited with the prospect of a new training venue! Photo by author

- Neal :) -

KILDARE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) -
I’ve been holding out on this post for as long as I could, mainly so that the final news would be of a completed wall!

UPDATE: If anyone is interested in the development of a new, large wall here in Dublin, Ireland, do let me know in the comments below, or comment in this forum on climbing.ie….

In short, an post and email was sent out in early January by Michael Duffy. I could write it myself but the words themselves say it all:

As you already know the lack of decent indoor bouldering facilities in Ireland is appalling. Until decent training facilities exist it will be impossible for people to achieve the high climbing standards seen in other countries. In Wicklow alone there are countless high calibre problems still to go, and to be blunt, we do not have the standard of climbers (as there are no facilities) to climb them. Over the years numerous home boards have come and gone, with the only reliable facilities being the universities, and these are a joke. As is our weather. I did more indoor training last summer than I climbed outside. Training is a year round thing.

A space has become available in South Dublin which is ideal for housing a bouldering venue. Taking the School Room in Sheffield as an example, a group of people share responsibility for what is essentially their wall. A co-op, where everyone has an input.

With the aim to “achieve the high climbing standards seen in other countries”, this venue would be open to 25 climbers (first-come-first-served basis) to join and use. Well, since then, all I can say is a) thankfully I’m one of the original members, and b) the wall has exceeded all expectations in setup!

Wall info and setup:

Just to give an idea of the setup and organisation, this is just a piece of the design plans. Yep, architect’s drawings of what, even on paper, looked like a serious bouldering wall.

To give an idea of the setup, the wall currently (more on this later) four different (all overhanging) angled walls: a 10-degree, 20-degree, 45-degree and a 20-to-60-degree curved barrel. The wall is about 4.3 metres high and each wall is two panels wide (almost 5 metres wide).

Two photos that might help give an idea of size (it’s big!):

I mentioned the ‘current’ setup. Future plans also include a campus board and the addition of a a roof. This will be about 70-80-degrees overhanging and about 5 metres tall. It basically runs the length of the roof up in the loft at the end of a room (can’t be seen in the photos). Wow.

For anyone with time and interested to see photos of the build, here’s a great time-lapse video of the construction by Tony Rooney:

Also, check out photos here (by Fatboy) here (by post author, Neal), and here (photos by Steve McMullen).

Costs:
Steve McMullen puts it well

Yeah we had holds donated for use from a few folk and we bought some really nice stuff off Pat Nolan/King Kong Climbing Walls.

The budget for this little project for the first year of operation between rent on the building and materials is approx €17500 so that gives you an indication of what level of commitment the members have and that doesn’t do justice to the innovation of the couple of folk who came up with the ideas and momentum in the first place or the bloody hard work of the folk who spent the long hours building it.

Finally
My own thoughts on this? Honestly, this is one of the best things to happen in Dublin regarding climbing in years. Fair enough, it’s only a wall but it’s a serious location for training and inspired by the Schoolroom (link to Moonclimbing - Ben Moon being one of the climbers that seems to have benefited hugely from the facility) bouldering wall of Sheffield which also seems to have played a part in the increase in standards in the UK. It can only push the boundaries and standards of Irish climbing levels. I personally, am expecting to see big improvements from the use of this! From the group of people turning up also, I know I’m in for a serious ass-kicking as my primary focus in route climbing so am well off the strength levels of the boulderers!
On a side note, having seen the interest in this wall, any arguments about the room for a full-scale private wall in Dublin have been negated. To say that there were only 25 people interested would be seriously wide of the mark!

UPDATE: If anyone is interested in the development of a new, large wall here in Dublin, Ireland, do let me know in the comments below, or comment in this forum on climbing.ie….

Image Credit:
Upper photo by Tony Rooney, copyrighted. Collection from here.
Photo of architect’s drawings taken by post author.

- Neal :) -

Basically you put on a heart monitor, you’re hooked up to a harnass (in case you fall off the treadmill!) and have a face mask very tightly fixed over your mouth. After recording you for 3 minutes in a stationery position you begin running slowly for 3 minutes. During that a small amount of blood is taken. Every 3 minutes the speed is increased and blood taken and stats recorded (heart rate, oxygen, I suppose). Eventually it all gets too much and you call a halt! It’s quite alien to be running with something over your mouth and it feels wrong to be running fast on a treadmill, you feel like something out of a cartoon that’s going to disappear flying off the back of it leaving an ‘Aisling-shaped’ imprint in the nearest wall.

I’m not an expert (!!) but the blood gives information relating to your diet and general health (mines good thankfully!). I don’t really know what the body fat and mass info tells you in relation to your performance or potential performance. Apparently my aerobic capacity is very good for my gender/ age/ level and my VO2 max was super! He also said I used body fat efficiently during exercise. He concluded that I was well suited to long distance/ endurance events and gave me a programme (heart rate controlled) to improve my performance. He also said to not lose weight (bring on the sticky buns) but to increase muscle strength with resistance training. I’m probably interpreting half of what he said all wrong as it’s a lot to take in all at once, especially with terminology you’re not familiar with and graphs and charts to take in too. (I’m only telling you the positive bits of mine of course!)

I’ll pass on the info. to Nige who kindly offered to take a look. Anyone else had this done? Let me know if you improved with the use of the Heart Rate monitor.

-Aisling-

DUBLIN, IRELAND (Geared Up Blog) - Power Breathe was something I never paid much attention to until last week when i got to try one for myself to see what its like. All you do is set the level of resistance first(1-10) and then simply take 30 breaths, twice a day. The idea is that it trains the muscles in your lungs by offering some resistance whilst breathing in. As i said i tried it the other day and after doing my 30 Breaths the first ‘normal’ breath i took afterwards i was able to breath much easier. They come in 3 different colours, green, blue and red. Green for an inactive person or with respiratory difficulties, blue for someone looking to increase their fitness level and red for people looking to take their competition to the next level. There is also a white one for medical purposes and limited edition, pink and black, Iron girl/man ones. This could be the ideal present for a sporty individual for Christmas! There are test models available in the Great Outdoors in Dublin for anyone to try out.

-Eoinod-