DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - I’m back from a very soggy Spain (yep, you read that right) after a small group from Ireland turned up for a week in Rodellar pulling on tufas. Unfortunately, said rain got in the way so we hit the road and made the most of the week in the Siurana region. Al Sarhan and Aoife Byrne are currently on a 6-month road-trip around all the crags of Europe (using Al’s encylopedia of crags - obtained from 10 years of collecting articles and guidebooks!) which was our excuse to visit Spain…. ;)

the definite highlight was Al though, who’s now running up 7b and +’s onsight pretty regularly and ticking off 7c-8a’s in 2-3 goes. Impressive stuff. Now that he’s been persuaded onto trying some 8b’s, it’ll be interesting to see what happens over the summer…..I’ll update as I hear news! Strength definitely isn’t the issue from what I saw so hopefully he gets his fitness dialled soon.

Anyway, other inspiring news was Eoin Lawless and Sean Marnane consolidating at 7a onsights. Impressive stuff! Sean looks like the mythical 7b on-sight could happen soon too……
Lots of others ( were making their return to sports climbing so it looks like they’ll all be climbing hard over the summer season. Stay tuned on that!

As for the weather, well after turning up in Siurana and checking out Margalef, we bumped into some individuals called Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada and Thomas Mrazek. Yep, it seems Costa Daurada region was the only place to climb! Crazy, early June and there’s still rain in Europe…..15 continuous days of rain in Siurana!

Image Credit:
#1: Al Sarhan on unknown 7c, Margalef, Spain
#2: Eoin Lawless working the moves on an unknown 7b+, Margalef, Spain. See that circular rainbow around the sun in the background? that means rain…..

- Neal :) -

DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Here’s a brief update on the last trip to Siurana in Spain with Rob. Firstly, who’d have thought we’d spend the whole trip looking for the SUN while there?! Usually it’s the complete opposite with an almost allergic reaction to sun in Siurana due to it being way too warm. I should have known it’d be different when I arrived at the crag wearing a t-shirt, two thermals, a hoodie, scarf, hat and a down jacket? :) Still though, once you’d gotten through the first few minutes of coldness (on every route you started), it was brilliant. Amazing actually!
I was only getting over an injury, and suffering seriously from a whopping cold/flu before I left so wasn’t expecting much. My only aim was to avoid Anabolica, the previous 8a which would affect the injury again, but try another one and try another harder route I’d been on only briefly previously. As for Rob, well it looked like he was game for anything which was always fun :)
Siurana was sooo quiet in comparison to last time, but we were lucky enough to bump into a small crew of Brits (Hi Dan, Tony, Sophie!) who were keen also in the cold weather to get out on rock. Due to the conditions, anyone who was motivated helped.

Dan on a 7b+, Monstant, Spain

The general routine? up for 8:30ish, climbing by 9:30ish/10 until dark (5:30), and then recover for the evening. Over the week Rob successfully ticked Bistec de Bicep, the classic, short and burly 7b+, and numerous other grade 7’s. A great week considering the conditions, and the general sluggishness that came with climbing in freezing temperatures!

Rob warming up (note the gloves) for Bistec de Biceps, Sector L’Olla, Siurana, Spain

I got to follow my aim, trying a new route on the big wall in Siurana. Crimpy and technical with a disappointing drilled mono pocket to overcome a blank section of wall. The problem? I can’t reach the mono either (Who measured it?!?!) so have to do some emmmm, entertaining maneuvers to get to it :)
I also got to try my other out-there hard route in Monstant. I’m in awe, slightly humbled due to it’s difficulty, and more inspired due to the fact that I could deal with it’s difficulty. It’s the 8b+/5.14a that can be seen in the Extras of that DVD ‘E11′. I wasn’t sure I was ready to publicly mention it here as it’s pretty out there in grades (for me at least), but what the hell, it’s on the wish list for a trip next year. Lots of work required to get myself to standard though, but if I needed an incentive to continue my training, this is it! Speaking of which, if anyone wants to do some virtual training by sharing knowledge and benchmarks, do let me know……

As it happened, it was wild weather the day we landed (the worst landing I’ve ever had), and on the final day it started snowing! Talk about a perfect week. I got word that no one could climb for the next week as there was no sunshine for heat. Talk about a fluke week for us.

Since then, well it’s been back to the drawing board, sorry fingerboard ;), and a lot more running! The more I talk to Dave and some of the other runners I’ve gotten to know through TGU, I’m starting to get into the running scene. Oh oh……

By the way, Happy New Year to all!

North Wales, UK (Team Geared Up)Dave MacLeod has updated bis excellent blog with a recount of what it felt like to send 9a and also some thoughts on his recent lecturing in Spain, international views of sport climbing and trad and also a plug for his wife’s new business venture - just in time for Christmas!

*Dave*

Image credit: http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/