Team Geared Up » 5.10 http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com talking about outdoor adventure... Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:09:57 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.5.1 en © robin@bytesurgery.com () robin@bytesurgery.com() 1440 talking about outdoor adventure... robin@bytesurgery.com No no http://homedir-b.libsyn.com/podcasts/a7d06df132db6001b6053c87a6356197/487cc283/bytesurgery/images/tgu.jpg Team Geared Up http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com 144 144 Geared Up Review: 5.10 Anasazi Verde http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/10/510-anasazi-verde-review.html http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/10/510-anasazi-verde-review.html#comments Mon, 22 Oct 2007 17:12:53 +0000 Dave Ayton http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/10/510-anasazi-verde-review.html 5.10 Verde

Overall, A big thumbs up!

Review of 5.10 Anasazi Verd
Rated as 5/5 on Oct 23 2007 by Dave Ayton

5/5

NORTH WALES (Team Geared Up) - Well I said ages ago that I’d write something about these once I had given them a good going over – well I’ve used them in anger once or twice now and heres the verdict…

There is no such thing as the perfect shoe but these green machines come as close as I’ve ever seen. I originally bought them for a planned trip to Fairhead when I was needing a decent pair of edging shoes but circumstances conspired against me and I ended up wearing them mostly on sports and trad limestone during the summer months. When it comes to Edging they are fantastic! Having climbed in their pink (Oi!! They’re not Pink… they’re passion RED!) predecessors for what seemed like forever I can say that the new Verde’s have kept all the best features of the original lace-up and the designers at 5.10 have finally got round to disposing with the gamy heel! The new heel is snug, the fit is tight yet comfortable and the rubber is stickier than shit on a blanket! Their only failing I’ve noticed so far is while smearing – maybe it’s because I’ve sized them quite tight or maybe it’s because they’re still fairly new, but either way I’ve found myself reverting to my 5.10 Anasazi Velcros (Onyx) for routes requiring broad smears as they feel more flexible and secure on ‘non-holds’.

Overview
The Verde’s have preformed equally well on Burren Limestone, Dalkey and Glendalough Granite, Welsh Slate, Cheshire Sandstone and also on French and UK sports limestone. Although the shoe’s last doesn’t adopt a radically aggressive, “pocket pulling”, down-turned toe like 5.10’s Dragons the Verde’s offer exceptional accuracy and enough support to allow you to get the most out of whatever footholds you find on offer. The fact that they don’t mangle your toes into some misshapen mess of skin and bone after 30 seconds wearing them is a massive plus! Apparently, although the new rubber is stickier than ever before it is also quite hard wearing. I’ve been climbing in mine all summer and have seen little signs of wear on those crucial edges.

Sizing
I’d advise trying them on for size before buying them as I found I needed to size mine a whole size smaller than my previous pair of original Anazasi’s…

Level/Style
These are not a beginner shoe! Their whole appeal for me lies in their precision, edges and grip. If you’re using them for indoor training or easy routes you’ll be wasting a great shoe on climbing that requires less from your footwear. Ideal for people operating above E2 and in the 7’s clipping bolts. A good all round bouldering shoe although lace-ups never prove the most popular for this discipline…

Overall, A big thumbs up!

-Dave-

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]]> http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/10/510-anasazi-verde-review.html/feed Review: Five Ten Dragon http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/06/review-five-ten-dragon.html http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/06/review-five-ten-dragon.html#comments Tue, 12 Jun 2007 06:16:27 +0000 Neal McQuaid http://blog.TeamGearedUp.com/2007/06/review-five-ten-dragon.html

NOWRA, NSW, AUSTRALIA (Team Geared Up) - I posted an initial review of FiveTen’s Dragons, their shoe specifically designed for steep terrain on my own blog in late February after my first month’s experience with them. Maybe it’ll be of use to someone now.

To update, they’re performing just as well as before but on very specific terrain, i.e. very steep. I’m astounded that a shoe can show a noticeable difference but these show it. My doubts over the ‘vague’ heel have evaporated also, giving as much grip as expected from FiveTen’s rubber.
The only bad part: one of the tongues pulled straight off the stitching which isn’t a good sign for the durability of the shoe. Thankfully, it hasn’t caused any discomfort (you don’t need to pull the laces tight) and I can’t find any more reports of similar issues on the internet. The sole’s durability has been as good as ever for FiveTen so hopefully to date this is the only issue that occurs.

See initial summarised review below:
“…bought these as the extreme shoe, basically, something I’d wear purely for steep routes. You WILL NOT wear these for a full day, although I must say they’ve been more comfortable than expected.”

Sizing: “…..I was recommended a half-size bigger than my usual Velcros…..they’ve been perfect. The first route or two were pretty tight, but they’ve loosened (only a teeny bit) into a perfect fit. Yes, they’re a tight, but amazing fit.

Peformance: “Wow. That’s all I can say. On steep routes (which is they’re designed for), they are stunning. Since they pull your toes down, it means you litterally are ‘grabbing’ with your feet onto edges. I’m in awe to be honest, and it almost feels like cheating sometimes ;) The heel suprisingly doesn’t feel as good as I expected….considering there’s no ‘dead-air’ around my foot…something to get used to?”

Verdict: “Outstanding, as long as it’s steep. Very aggressive fit, but if you’re climbing on steep ground on little edges, you won’t regret having shelled out for them.”

-Neal-

Image Credit: My Dragons after a hard days work on a 7c+ in Thailand, February 2007. Taken by Author

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