DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Ricky Bell has continued with his great form and ticked off Ireland’s hardest route, Divided Years in The Mournes. This is the first ascent of the route by a local climber and the fourth ascent over all after John Dunne, Dave Birkett and Dave MacLeod, a fairly impressive list for Ricky to have his name added to. Yet again the news was broken by Si Moore on the Fairheadclimbers forums and here’s what he had to say:

Rick managed to succeed today on divided years. Very impressive ascent. French 8a+/8b climbing, several 30 foot falls onto hand placed bird beaks. Amazing route climbed in style placing all gear on lead. E9 6c.

Divided Years has been the big one in Ireland ever since John Dunne first climbed it back in 1994 and graded it E10 7a, the worlds first E10. Then there came the reports of it being over-graded, leading to Dave MacLeods ascent and his proposed down-grading of the route to E8 6c in 2006. Dave MacLeods down-grading seemed to cause nearly as much controversy as the over-grading did in the first place and even more rumours appeared suggesting E9 6c might be a more accurate grading. Looks like Ricky agreed, and he climbed it in great style as well, to be only the second ascent with all the gear placed on lead.

I’d heard that Ricky fell from one of the last moves on this a few weeks ago, then the weather wasn’t co-operating for him to get back to it. It’s great to see that he’s ticked it now, bringing Irish climbing standards to the next level. Fair play and many more big lines to go this summer I’m sure!

-Stephen Mc Gowan-

(Image Credit: Ricky Bell working Divided Years - E9 6c by Craig Hiller - http://www.hillerscapes.co.uk/)

DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - Si Moore broke the news of Ricky Bells impressive ascent last Thursday in Fairhead, giving Fairhead it’s second E8. An Bealach Eile (The Other Way), now gives Fairhead “its hardest route by a considerable margin” - Si Moore.

Si, no stranger to hard ascents himself, has described the route as hard E8 6c. This makes this route the hardest route in Ireland outside of The Mournes and right up there with Ireland’s hardest lines.

Ricky has the following to say about the ascent:

An Bealach Eile 30m***E8 (6c)
R.Bell, A.Marshall 15/5/08 (Headpoint)
A beautiful line up the steep blank wall above the big ledge on An Bealach Runda. Continually engaging and with the crux right where you don’t want it, this line has big blow it potential.

From the left end of the big ledge make tricky moves up and right to a hard pull off two slopey side pulls. Small nut at 25feet. Move diagonally up and right to get established on the big pedestal. Climb the slight groove above past a huge juggy flake to a flat hold and a crucial blind nut placement out left. Finish up the horribly thin seam in the groove up and right.

This line is amazing. For me it’s been a bit of a step up. Hard and bold and very easy to blow it about 6 feet from the top. Been meaning to do it for a while now but never felt quite right. Thursday was perfect. Conditions were really good on the dark side. Slopey side pulls felt like jugs but the top still felt on off. So psyched to top it out.

As a side note anyone who hasn’t seen the trailer for Onsight, Posing Productions latest project, should check it out here. There are some great clips of Ricky attempting a 6 foot sidewards dyno on another new route in Fairhead and the 10m fall when he misses the hold.

Very impressive, early season climbing from Ricky. Looks like it could be a good summer ahead, now we just need good luck with the weather *fingers crossed*.

-Stephen Mc Gowan-

(Image Credit: Ricky Bell on Happiness That Hurts E7 6c, Ailladie by Craig Hiller - http://www.hillerscapes.co.uk )

DUBLIN, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) - The Mountaineering Council of Ireland have organised the Spring Meet once again, and it’s being hosted on the 17th and 18th of May in Glendalough Wicklow.

The all important bit is what’s arranged:

Saturday
Arrival (Glendalough International Youth Hostel) and Registration 09am to 10:30am
A range of all-day Hillwalks departing 10:30am
Climbing (for experienced climbers only, information on where to climb available at registration)
Dinner in Glendalough International Hostel from 6.30pm
Night Walk 9pm

Sunday
Dawn Chorus in association with Wicklow Mountains National Park and Birdwatch Ireland 5am – 6.30 am
Leave No Trace Awareness Workshop 10am - 1pm
Introduction to Climbing 10am - 1pm
GPS Training 10am – 1pm

Registration has to be in by 2nd May and all details can be found on the MCI website here.

As part of this, they’ve also organised a Youth Meet.

This is to offer young people a chance to go hillwalking, climbing or bouldering.
The event is aimed at young people who have some experience already, but would like to build on their skills. There will be experienced MCI volunteers on-hand throughout the day to give advice and guidance.

The meet is aimed at young people aged 15-18, and is also open to under 15’s who are accompanied by an adult.

to book onto this, check out the MCI page here.

Image Credit: Andy Kelly on the boulders of Glendalough.

- Neal :) -

SINGAPORE (Team Geared Up) - Keep an eye on The Short Span for details of the Irish Bouldering Meet 2008. The Fifth Annual Irish Bouldering Meet will be on the weekend of Friday 29th Febuary to Sunday 2th March based in the I.M.C Hut in Glendasan Country Wicklow.

This is a fantastic weekend for new & international climbers to meet the regulars in the Irish scene. I always look forward to the photography after these meets. Excellent photos always seem to keep coming from Dave Flanagan.

Also see Beardown Productions video of their visit from the UK to the 2005 meet and The Short Span’s Bouldering Guide to Ireland (PDF).

-Robin.

(Image Credit: Three Sponge Bob Square pants walk in on a dinger of a day. Photo by Dave Flanagan.)