Team Geared Up

KILDARE, IRELAND (Team Geared Up) -
I’ve been holding out on this post for as long as I could, mainly so that the final news would be of a completed wall!

UPDATE: If anyone is interested in the development of a new, large wall here in Dublin, Ireland, do let me know in the comments below, or comment in this forum on climbing.ie….

In short, an post and email was sent out in early January by Michael Duffy. I could write it myself but the words themselves say it all:

As you already know the lack of decent indoor bouldering facilities in Ireland is appalling. Until decent training facilities exist it will be impossible for people to achieve the high climbing standards seen in other countries. In Wicklow alone there are countless high calibre problems still to go, and to be blunt, we do not have the standard of climbers (as there are no facilities) to climb them. Over the years numerous home boards have come and gone, with the only reliable facilities being the universities, and these are a joke. As is our weather. I did more indoor training last summer than I climbed outside. Training is a year round thing.

A space has become available in South Dublin which is ideal for housing a bouldering venue. Taking the School Room in Sheffield as an example, a group of people share responsibility for what is essentially their wall. A co-op, where everyone has an input.

With the aim to “achieve the high climbing standards seen in other countries”, this venue would be open to 25 climbers (first-come-first-served basis) to join and use. Well, since then, all I can say is a) thankfully I’m one of the original members, and b) the wall has exceeded all expectations in setup!

Wall info and setup:

Just to give an idea of the setup and organisation, this is just a piece of the design plans. Yep, architect’s drawings of what, even on paper, looked like a serious bouldering wall.

The troops were mobilised with arranging donations of spare holds, matting, stereos, and of course the tools to the build the wall. As of this week, all members will have a key and the wall is basically up and running. To give info for anyone considering do it themselves, with the help of almost all the members it took 4 days to build the actual wall, and another full weekend just to set the holds (still not finished).

To give an idea of the setup, the wall currently (more on this later) four different (all overhanging) angled walls: a 10-degree, 20-degree, 45-degree and a 20-to-60-degree curved barrel. The wall is about 4.3 metres high and each wall is two panels wide (almost 5 metres wide).

Two photos that might help give an idea of size (it’s big!):

I mentioned the ‘current’ setup. Future plans also include a campus board and the addition of a a roof. This will be about 70-80-degrees overhanging and about 5 metres tall. It basically runs the length of the roof up in the loft at the end of a room (can’t be seen in the photos). Wow.

For anyone with time and interested to see photos of the build, here’s a great time-lapse video of the construction by Tony Rooney:

Also, check out photos here (by Fatboy) here (by post author, Neal), and here (photos by Steve McMullen).

Costs:
Steve McMullen puts it well

Yeah we had holds donated for use from a few folk and we bought some really nice stuff off Pat Nolan/King Kong Climbing Walls.

The budget for this little project for the first year of operation between rent on the building and materials is approx €17500 so that gives you an indication of what level of commitment the members have and that doesn’t do justice to the innovation of the couple of folk who came up with the ideas and momentum in the first place or the bloody hard work of the folk who spent the long hours building it.

Finally
My own thoughts on this? Honestly, this is one of the best things to happen in Dublin regarding climbing in years. Fair enough, it’s only a wall but it’s a serious location for training and inspired by the Schoolroom (link to Moonclimbing - Ben Moon being one of the climbers that seems to have benefited hugely from the facility) bouldering wall of Sheffield which also seems to have played a part in the increase in standards in the UK. It can only push the boundaries and standards of Irish climbing levels. I personally, am expecting to see big improvements from the use of this! From the group of people turning up also, I know I’m in for a serious ass-kicking as my primary focus in route climbing so am well off the strength levels of the boulderers!
On a side note, having seen the interest in this wall, any arguments about the room for a full-scale private wall in Dublin have been negated. To say that there were only 25 people interested would be seriously wide of the mark!

UPDATE: If anyone is interested in the development of a new, large wall here in Dublin, Ireland, do let me know in the comments below, or comment in this forum on climbing.ie….

Image Credit:
Upper photo by Tony Rooney, copyrighted. Collection from here.
Photo of architect’s drawings taken by post author.

- Neal :) -