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Oct
22
2007
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Geared Up Review: 5.10 Anasazi Verde |
Overall, A big thumbs up!
Review of 5.10 Anasazi Verd
Rated as /5 on Oct 23 2007 by Dave Ayton
NORTH WALES (Team Geared Up) - Well I said ages ago that I’d write something about these once I had given them a good going over – well I’ve used them in anger once or twice now and heres the verdict…
There is no such thing as the perfect shoe but these green machines come as close as I’ve ever seen. I originally bought them for a planned trip to Fairhead when I was needing a decent pair of edging shoes but circumstances conspired against me and I ended up wearing them mostly on sports and trad limestone during the summer months. When it comes to Edging they are fantastic! Having climbed in their pink (Oi!! They’re not Pink… they’re passion RED!) predecessors for what seemed like forever I can say that the new Verde’s have kept all the best features of the original lace-up and the designers at 5.10 have finally got round to disposing with the gamy heel! The new heel is snug, the fit is tight yet comfortable and the rubber is stickier than shit on a blanket! Their only failing I’ve noticed so far is while smearing – maybe it’s because I’ve sized them quite tight or maybe it’s because they’re still fairly new, but either way I’ve found myself reverting to my 5.10 Anasazi Velcros (Onyx) for routes requiring broad smears as they feel more flexible and secure on ‘non-holds’.
Overview
The Verde’s have preformed equally well on Burren Limestone, Dalkey and Glendalough Granite, Welsh Slate, Cheshire Sandstone and also on French and UK sports limestone. Although the shoe’s last doesn’t adopt a radically aggressive, “pocket pullingâ€, down-turned toe like 5.10’s Dragons the Verde’s offer exceptional accuracy and enough support to allow you to get the most out of whatever footholds you find on offer. The fact that they don’t mangle your toes into some misshapen mess of skin and bone after 30 seconds wearing them is a massive plus! Apparently, although the new rubber is stickier than ever before it is also quite hard wearing. I’ve been climbing in mine all summer and have seen little signs of wear on those crucial edges.
Sizing
I’d advise trying them on for size before buying them as I found I needed to size mine a whole size smaller than my previous pair of original Anazasi’s…
Level/Style
These are not a beginner shoe! Their whole appeal for me lies in their precision, edges and grip. If you’re using them for indoor training or easy routes you’ll be wasting a great shoe on climbing that requires less from your footwear. Ideal for people operating above E2 and in the 7’s clipping bolts. A good all round bouldering shoe although lace-ups never prove the most popular for this discipline…
Overall, A big thumbs up!
-Dave-
Latest Comments (8):
Wow Dave!!! What a great first post :-)
Good review Dave!
Love these shoes as well but I probably need to size them a size/half size smaller next time….but they’ve faired me well this summer! From what I hear Great Outdoors only has them in fairly big sizes, they don’t seem to get that you need to size these smaller…but maybe they’ve fixed that by now.
Dave, fixed the post a bit to be consistent with the rest of the reviews. Great post!
Cheers Alx, appreciate the nudge in the right direction… Will try and keep all reviews in similar form from now on :)
Dave - it’s just a case of pressing the [Insert Louder Voice Review] on the editor panel when writing. Didn’t want to confuse you at first with it.
Only thing to double check then is your image is the very first thing (add after LV Review) so its not the rating stars that appear on the homepage as first image.
nice!
Hi guys
I wear 9,5 US(42,4 EU) street shoe size. I bought a size 9 US pair of Verdes and find them too tight. My toes were curled all the way, I couldn’t stand in them. Now I ordered another pair,size 9,5, but I am afraid that they also will be too small. Does anyone wear 9,5 for street shoes? Should I buy size 10 instead? How tight do you wear your rock shoes?
Thank you and waiting for your response.
@kukubau
hey. I’m a rock climber myself and I have learned that you should buy them smaller than your size. if they are comfortable then they are too big. the point being you want the shoes to fit like a tight glove so the shoe becomes almost an extension of your foot and it shouldn’t move at all in the shoe. rock climbing shoes are made for climbing and not walking. what most people do is have rock climbing shoes and then some kinda of sandal or slipper for when they are on the ground. new rock climb shoes will hurt a bit at first but that’s just because you need to break them in, so it’ll take several climbs to do so. but after a while they will fell tight still but more comfortable. but they should be tight enough where you want to take them off when you get down, but not so tight where its bothering you during the climb. don’t wear socks either.
if your toes curl all the way in a 9 then it maybe too tight, I’d say stick with the 9.5. but like I said, everyone is different so it’ll take some time for you to figure out what works best.
hope that helps.
Thanks for your response.
I ordered a size 10 pair. I think that they will be just fine. One size in this particular model is not much, after seeing my toes curled like that.
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