Team Geared Up

NOWRA, NSW, AUSTRALIA (Team Geared Up) - O.k., so apologies with the delay on my own update as we moved locations in the past week and I lost my easy internet access. Wish list for the forthcoming years? Internet access everywhere and free/cheap :) I’m not asking for much, am I?

So, we’re now south of Sydney at Nowra, one of Australia’s other big sports climbing destinations. The Blue Mountains had a bit of an unsuccessful end for me personally. I had set my sights on climbing my second grade-8 route (French 8a, Australian 29, American 5.13b) here. The route was to be ‘Don’t Believe The Tripe’, a grade 29 (8a/5.13b) and supposedly one of the best in the Blue Mountains. O.k., so I’m picky :)
Unfortunately it wasn’t to be as due to severely abused skin (i.e. none left), a lack of time, some illness, and some bad preparation on the last day for my one and only attempt (not warmed up properly – lesson learned), meant that I’ll have to leave it for another time. The joys of projecting routes! Still though, as one of the great climbing movies says: “it’s hard to complain when the climbing is so good”!!
From a progress point of view, I was able to complete the route with one rest after only trying all the moves once, and felt that I wasn’t near my limit from a finger strength point of view. Hopeful for future ascents!

We’re in Nowra now and I’m on a forced lay-off, partly due to the destroyed skin, partly as I needed a break (I’ve been travelling for 5 months solid now), and partly as I fell off a route and picked up some ropeburn. There’s the link to the photo if anyone wants of the aftermath….. Oops! Still though, with only two weeks left in Australia, I’m happy to prepare myself for my final challenge.
It’s a route I tried a few weeks ago in The Gallery at The Grampians National Park, 3 hours west of Melbourne, going by the wonderful name of ‘Baby Koalas in the Eucalyptus’ (29/8a/5.13b). Don’t ask me, I didn’t name it!
Overhanging as much as I climb in vertical height (15 meters), this is not my style (I’m a much more of an endurance climber, this involves bag-loads of power) but I fell off with only one rest on my previous attempts (I’ve tried it about 7 or 8 times now) so I’m ready to try put it all together. Fingers and toes crossed for me people!

As a concidence, Carole McGloughlin (another Irish climber on a world tour) took this photo on a previous attempt. A fantastic action photo (from an earlier attempt, but ironically of where my highest point has been on the route).

Back with more news next week!

Image Credit:
PHOTO 1: Seán Marnane on one of his project routes in Nowra, grade 26 (7b+/5.12b). Photo modified to highlight colors. Photo by author
PHOTO 2: the author mid flight on his current project (29/8a/5.13b). Photo courtesy of Carole McGloughlin.

-Neal :) -